Surf Is Where You Find It

Radical🤙🏼 als je surfen leuk vindt, vind je dit boek ook vet. Alles over surfen en wat je kan leren van de zee🌊 “Surfing happens best when it’s in the present: the past is behind and the future not yet. The only thing of interest is what’s here and now.” 🏄🏼‍♀️✨......more

I love surfing. Surfing is what I go to when life is super stressful and I just need to let off some steam. The feeling of sliding down the face of a wave and pulling into the pocket is only a feeling a surfer can have and Gerry Lopez, being the pro at this, illustrates this feeling in his book Sur......more

This feels more like an oral history written down than a memoir of any kind. Gerry was a crucial part of the core of surfing for many years, it was his job, and what he does. This felt sincere and honest—he’s a nice, goofy guy who cares about surfing and is genuinely trying to be a good person. Very......more

Gerry grew up in the islands, from whence he soaked up his easy-does-it style, Aloha spirit, and general approach to life, nature, and the wave. Then, in return, thousands of surfers and friends soaked up that Aloha spirit from Gerry. I mean, you've really got to admire someone who made his living b......more

Frickin loved listening to this book! Such entertaining stories of surfing, surf history, wipeouts, philosophy and the life of Gerry Lopez. He’s an actual legend. Really enjoyed his humour and storytelling.......more